The Hermès style is inspired by the 80s, Loewe becomes conceptual in Paris

By Thomas Adamson | Associated Press

PARIS — Hermès led the pack during Paris Fashion Week on Saturday as its veteran menswear designer, Véronique Nichanian, brought an atypical glam rock edge to its lush products.

There was no far-off concept, gimmick or muse, unlike most Parisian salons, because none were needed. Nichanian – who has run the family business for 34 years – is an expert at letting clothes do the talking.

Meanwhile, a fun quirky fare greeted guests at the Loewe Lounge. They walked through sand and under 4,000 multicolored satin ribbons of varying lengths – a site-specific work of art – to find their seats.

Minimalism stands out as one of the key themes of this entire autumn-winter season. Here are some highlights of the 2022 men’s clothing displays:

The surreal world of Loewe

Disconcerting music evoked some sort of dangerous playground as the clothes began to show on the sandy Loewe track. “Nothing is as it seems,” the house said of the spellbinding display.

Jonathan Anderson, the designer of the Spanish heritage brand, said he wanted to shake up the normal and the everyday with this surreal universe.

He put a spin on fall-winter staples, blowing up a pair of dark, round-toed boots, for example, to almost clownish proportions.

A white T-shirt and black shorts became abstract works of art with huge circular hoops inserted at the hems to create the illusion that the model had been cut diagonally through its center.

A minimalist, oversized coffee-colored coat looked quite understated from the front. But when the model turned around, the garment had a double circular pattern in the middle that resembled a shiny posterior and inspired guests to smash their cameras.

The style of Hermes

Nichanian let her hair down during her Left Bank show for Hermès, infusing the typically haute couture designs with a subtle but distinct 1980s edge.

Shiny metallic leather riding boots accessorized with loose bomber jackets filled with zippers. High waists on pleated wool pants contrast with retro angled bucket hats.

The contradictions in style represented what the house said was Nichanian’s “heartfelt desire for oxymorons and sophistication”.

Hermès has become synonymous with simple, unpretentious luxury. With panache, the veteran menswear designer proved the adage to be true in this chic and masculine presentation.

The collection featured a bolder color palette dappled with browns, bronzes, and what the house poetically referred to as “peppers, pewter, evergreens, and lettuce green (and) frosty blue.”

LGN gets nostalgic for clubbing

French writer Charles Baudelaire was the creative starting point for young French designer Louis Gabriel Nouchi, who launched his LGN brand five years ago after getting noticed at the Hyères fashion and photography festival.

Minimalism is essential to understand the aesthetics of this trendy brand which has just opened a boutique in the trendy district of rue Oberkampf in Paris.

Nouchi said he wanted to have a “modern reflection” on Baudelaire’s book “Artificial Paradises”, which examines 19th-century hedonism and the effects of drug use on the body. The creator used it to explore the nostalgia of closed nightclubs in France during the pandemic.

The LGN collection featured many exposed skins, shades, leotards, and baggy shirts and tops that seemed to run down the models like sweat. More literally, at one point there were real fake sweat stains created on a sweatshirt.

The colors were dark and understated – often monochromatic – and interrupted only by the eerie flame-coloured flash of the scarf print. The handlebar mustaches on a nearly nude model in cut-off white underwear evoked the intoxicating narcotic heights of a drug-fueled festival.

Auralee is huggable

“Light, bright, luminous,” was a rather unusual fall-winter mantra for Auralee.

Still, the Tokyo-based brand imagining the sun bursting out of a snowy sky – rather than channeling autumn into mood or color palette – created a nice change of season, especially amid the low and gray of Paris.

The pastel grays and browns, dark vanilla and sky blues that bloom on the Auralee catwalk are some of the most beautiful shades seen all week. The colors were used in tonal harmony on well-executed outfits that had a great clean simplicity.

The Japanese house, founded in 2015 by Ryota Iwai, is known for using premium materials from around the world. Those used in the collection on display on Saturday gave the garments a truly luxurious feel. A myriad of tweeds mixed with wool silk alpaca herringbone, organic cotton cashmere wool, “hairy” mohair knit and textured baby camel melton.

It was one of the most cuddly displays of the season.